Trying to live frugally in Barcelona

Ok people...this is not an easy thing to do.  In a city where you can encounter 5-10 restaurants/cafes/bars/bakeries in one city block, it is damn near difficult to walk by them, hangry as all get out, towards your apartment so that you can go home and cook a meal that you are 100% sure won't turn out as good as the tapas that they have at the place down the street.  But you do because that meal will feed you twice and will be cheaper to make than ordering a delicious plate of patatas bravas or berberechos (cockles...remember that nursery rhyme?  Mary, Mary quite contrary...?  I never knew what the heck a cockle shell was and here I am, 27 years after I had to recite that for my preschool graduation, knowing exactly what they are, look, and taste like).  

So, we eat out 2-3 times per week now and always try to go to places that have "Menu del Dia," Menu of the Day, and places that have the menu for less than 10 Euros.  Usually, a restaurant or cafe will offer 3 plates for that price: el primero, which is a starter plate and is usually a salad, small soup, or appetizer; el segundo, which is the main dish; and postre, dessert.  Sometimes drinks are included.  Vegetarian places have really good deals...sometimes as low as 6.50 Euros and usually includes more stuff like bread and coffee in addition to everything else.  We try to stick to eating out during the weekdays because during the weekend, Menus jump in price as much as 4 or 5 Euros.  Sometimes you could get lucky with brunch and can get a decent meal (one plate only) for about 6-8 Euros, no drinks included.

Also, there is no tipping (unless you are incredibly impressed with the servers); the servers actually get paid a decent wage.  This also means that service is usually slow and you sometimes might get servers who don't give a crap about how long you've been waiting.  I have noticed a subtle positive shift in mood when the waiter walks up to our table and I stop speaking in English to say, "Hola!  Como estas?"  However, when they start speaking to me in Catalan (of which I can only comprehend a bit), I have to apologize and say that I don't understand Catalan.  I swear that they imperceptibly sigh and shift to flawless Spanish (Castellano, as it is referred to here.  Since there are different languages used in Spain - Gallego in Galicia, Euskari in Basque Country, and Catalan in Catalunya - the term "Spanish" encompasses all of them.  All of them are Spanish, but do not speak it.  Instead, they refer to spoken Spanish as Castellano, another name for another Spanish language).

A lot of Museums (Picasso Museum, Museu Blau) have reduced rates or are free on the first Sunday of each month and after 3pm on every following Sunday.  Museums usually close at 8pm, so there is enough time to get in and out and have seen everything if you get there by 3pm.  We usually wait to go to the expensive museums until it is Sunday.  That is the beauty of living here for a while...we can afford to wait.  However, for those visiting, it would be wise to prioritize based on what you want to see the most and what is the most expensive.  Also, if you know someone who lives in Barcelona, ask if you're able to borrow their library card.  We have one for each of us and it gives us 20-50% off admission price to lots of museums, theatres, cinemas, etc.  For those of you coming to visit (I'm talking to yous guys: Ann+Erik, Casey, Jon+Kat, Paul, Ryan+Erin, and Sherrie), you are more than welcome to use ours or it might be worth it if you're staying here long enough to use our address and phone number and grab your own (it is so easy to do it here.  I didn't even need documentation beyond my driver's license).

Also, single ticket rides on the metro here are expensive...I think it's 2 Euros for one way.  Buy a pass or even a 10-ride ticket (which costs 9.80).  The beauty of being in the city (and not in Gracia, for example) is that everywhere you want to go is no more than a 20 minute walk.  I JUST expired my 10 ride pass today and we've been living here a little over a month.

This is the outside of a pastry shop we visited called "Escribà."   Escriba without the accent means "scribe," but I'm pretty sure it's a 4th or 5th generation company and the name is the last name of the family who started it.  

This is their store on the corner of a street right off La Rambla.  You could see that it was founded in 1820.  The server told me that although they specialize in chocolate and cakes (as in beautiful wedding cakes...check out their cute webpage for beautiful pictures), they make amazing croissants and were the first bakery in Barcelona to make the French-style butter croissant (don't quote me on that one, though; it's just hearsay).  

There is outdoor seating, but we couldn't resist sitting and looking at this beautiful peacock stained-glass window.

They don't have much in the way of savory foods, but they make an amazing quiche and you could see how the beautiful brioche-ish bread made a perfect accompaniment to the "meh" ham and cheese within it.

Euskal Restaurant is located both on La Rambla and within La Boqueria market.  It is a Basque restaurant and it's name  literally means "the" according to Google translate.  So, it reads "The Restaurant."  Sukaldari means chef.  Anyhow, we came here because I spotted the "Paella del Chef - 9 Euros" sign while shopping in La Boqueria and was intrigued.  Our server was amazing...the paella, not so much.  Maybe the Basque version of paella differs from what I'm used to...or maybe what I'm used to is an Americanized version of paella.  Anyhow, the portion of paella for 9 euros fed us two meals, which was nice.  I hear this place has really good "pintxos," tapas on bread held together with a toothpick.  I'd stop by again to try it out because it is so close.

At Euskal in La Boqueria.

Ooooohhh...I can't wait to tell y'all about this place.  It is called Mescladis and it is a restaurant /culinary training school/education/intercultural support center for immigrants to Spain.  

As much as possible, their food is sourced locally, ethically, and responsibly.  Our waiter was also our cook and he was from Senegal.  The food was absolutely fresh and delicious.  Desmond had two veggie and cheese empanadas with a salad and some freshly-squeezed OJ.  Our first dish was a pumpkin and ginger bisque with swirled olive oil on the top and served with warm bread.  I'm not a big fan of bisques (unless it's lobster bisque..omg...mmmm), but this one was rich, creamy, and perfect for the cold and windy day. 

For our main dish we had the vegan burger, which was made out of a garbanzo/lentil/bean mix patty and had this amazing sour cream type garnish on the top and was served open face.  The salad dressing on the salad was so so so so so delicious.  I could have eaten just the salad with the dressing and been 100% joyful about life and if you know me, you know that JUST a salad never cuts it for me.  Our dessert was a delicious cacao brownie, served warm.  The whole meal was 12 Euros but we shared and even if we hadn't and the whole thing cost 24 Euros, I would've been pleased.

Looking out into the courtyard in the back.  Would be lovely to come back and visit on a warmer day.  Also, they have cooking classes that highlight different culture's cuisines!  I think the next one is Italian and the one after that is Mexican.

We had heard about Pinotxo Bar from our dear friend, Tony, and we'd read that it was the place to go to in La Boqueria for tapas.  Being a seasoned Boqueria-er, I knew exactly where this place was located (and if you've ever been to La Boqueria, you'd be patting me on the back, too).  Pinotxo means Pinocchio in Catalan.  If you go to the website, click on the link for staff and you will see their pictures.  ALL of them were at the bar that day and I even saw the owner, this cute little old man, walking around our neighborhood the other day.

We ordered butifarra (Catalan sausage), a stew, and a potato latke with brie cheese cooked on top of it.  A bit heavy for a meal, but we were starving.  Usually, we would just order 2 tapas, but we said "what the hell!" and ordered three.  Should've known better when they didn't have a menu and no prices were listed.  3 tapas, a cana of beer, a Cacaolat (chocolate milk), and pineapple juice cost us 33 Euros!!!  It was all very delicious, but we would rather go to O'Toxo 3 Hermanos in our neighborhood.  Wonderful, delicious tapas for much less than Pinotxo's.  Also, it's not crawling with tourists (what?  We're not tourists...)

Our next nice meal was at Teresa Carles (Carles is"Charles"  in Catalan).  It is a vegetarian restaurant right behind our building.  It's not a very crunchy place; it's actually quite upscale and the prices reflect it.  However, savvy people like ourselves know that it is almost impossible to find a good deal on Sundays unless you show up before 2pm for brunch.  

Billy ordered eggs and brie with toast topped with a tomato salad (4.50 Euros).  Des had an apple and ginger muffin and he stole an apple from their display basket (1.20 Euros).  I had scalded eggs atop mushrooms (all different kinds) atop toast and drizzled with Hollandaise sauce (7.50 Euros).  My brunch was excellent...Billy thought that the brie cheese was a bit too much for the egg but really liked the tomatoes on the bread.  Des devoured the muffin.  They also give you these candied almonds to go with your coffee and holy crap.  There's a reason they sell these alone in the restaurant so that you could blow your daily caloric intake eating these at home.

These things are called Salame de chocolate.  Basically, chocolate salami.  They are sold at Buenas Migas (my new favorite BCN chain restaurant).  Seriously, they are the best dessert I have ever had (even better than this South African cake I had in NYC.  Sherrie, do you remember the name?)

I know...right?  It looks gross...but it's made out of chocolate, condensed milk, and biscuits.   If you've always wanted to experience a "high," be safe and get it from this.  (Image from this Portuguese website with recipe!)